Removing the harmonic balancer on any car is akin to trying to skin a cat with a hairbrush.  To accomplish this Herculaneum feat you need massive leverage, fire and a mouth like a sailor.

I did this about a month ago with my Lexus ES300 and thought I would post the how to here and the video.  The bolt that holds a harmonic balancer in place is quite large and about 2″ long. It generally will be rusted in place and if, like my car, yours has 150k in miles, then the screw has been screwed down even more with time.

Things you will need:

1. Rent or buy 1/2″ large breaker bar ( 3 feet ought to do it. Autozone has them for free with a deposit)
2. Extension rods to bring the clearance out enough to work with the breaker bar. I used 2 12″ to get the job done.

3. A jack to leverage against

4. A high temp torch, no cheap ‘ole propane torch will do the work
5. A breaker bar to hold onto the harmonic balanceer ( I made my own after watching a youtube video

I watched all sorts of videos to figure out how to do this and I had to try all of them to come to a solution that worked for me. I would under no circumstances suggest starting the car with a breaker bar attached to the balancer. That simply

didn’t pass the smell test with me and sounded like a great way to fuck up the engine. I opted for elbow grease and fire. Once the harmonic balance is exposed and ready for removal, you need to set up the system with a large breaker bar and a jack that will support the load of you standing on the breaker bar and trying to torque the nut off. If this doesn’t work after several tries ( I applied well in excess of 300lbs of torque with no luck then it is time to try fire. I broker out my

oxygen/ propane kit and got a nice hot flame and set it on the bolt for about 20 seconds to

get it really hot. I then tried standing on my breaker bar again and successfully broke the connection.

Breaker Bar I made from a metal rod and 1.5" pipe floor flange. I notched the floor flange with a grinder to fit over my balancer and drilled 2 holes to accomodate 2 bolts to fit in the harmonic balancer's threading.

Close up of the pipe flange with the grinder cuts I did to fit into the balancer.

So I decided to remove the front lower service plate which is annoyingly held in place by 3 torx screws that are hard to get at. After I removed them the panel popped off and the filter was easy to get at. Once I unscrewed the cap lots of water came out along with a watch, spring, staples and the big problem….a stocking that was jammed over in the right side of the unit. I had to use a pair of tweezers to remove it. Alls well now.

Original Logic Clock board was white

double built in wall oven.

After doing some research on line I decided it was an easy repair and shouldn’t take too long. First, of course, I had to order the part. I found the part number 71001872 at Appliance Zone for $120 to be the cheapest on line and it arrived within a few days.  The repair is a no brainer. There are 3 screws on the bottom of the face that are visible with the top oven door open. Once they are removed the face must slide up 6″ to come off the guides that hold it in place. When you remove it you will notice 2 sets of cables on the back that fasten into the clock logic board.

Notice 2 cables coming from oven going to logic board

They simply pull off then you can set the face down on a table with a towel under it. Once you have it set down, make sure you remove the ribbon cable that powers the buttons in front. To do this look closely at the side edges of the ribbon cable adapter and you will notice to small notched brackets coming up and pointing outwards. Using your fingernails simply pull these up and the ribbon cable will release. Then, there are 4- 1/4″ SAE sheet metal screws holding the clock logic board in place.

Notice small brackets on the ribbon cable fastener. These lift up to release the ribbon cable.

Using a ratchet or similar tool unscrew the 4 screws. Re-installation is the opposite. Total time for me was 15minutes. Money saved from hiring a pro at least $200.

Range electronic control 71001872 is used on Maytag, Amana, Admiral, Norge, Crosley, Estate, Jenn Air, Magic Chef, and some Sears, Kenmore ranges

Replaces 71001872R, AP4090010, 695197,

PS2077427, PT12263997

Here are a few of the models that use range electronic control 71001872,

ACB6260AB, ACB6260AS, ACB6260AW, ACB6280AS, MEW6627BAB, MEW6627BAC,?

MEW6627BAQ, MEW6627BAS, MEW6627BAW, MEW6627CAS, MEW6630BAB, MEW6630BAC,? MEW6630BAQ, MEW6630BAS, MEW6630BAW, MEW6630CAS, WW27430B, WW27430BC,? WW27430P, WW27430PF, WW27430PG, WW27430PK, WW27430PR, WW27430PU,? WW27430W, WW27430WC, WW30430B, WW30430P, WW30430PC, WW30430PF,? WW30430PG, WW30430PK, WW30430PR,

Remove the ribbon cable by lifting the small corner brackets with? your finger nails, then remove the 4 sheet metal screws.

WW30430PU, WW30430W